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To Season: Moroccan Sauces Delightfully Complex

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At age 88, Earl Fultz of Cutchogue, N.Y., and his wife, Gloria Elmaleh, 85, who was born in Morocco, started commercially bottling and selling the Moroccan sauces and spices she had been concocting at home. Though she died last year, Mr. Fultz, now 91, soldiered on and even expanded the business. Charissa, their brand, won a best-in-category award at this summer’s Fancy Food Show. The condiment, with a simple ingredient list and no preservatives, comes in two forms, original and “with a kick.” Both are more complex and less fiery than genuine harissa, the North African sauce. The sauces are oily, with a nubbly texture. The spice blends will season food without smothering; the one with the kick has more bitterness: Charissa Moroccan Seasoning, $12 for 8 ounces, Charissa Spice Rub, $6 for 2.5 ounces, charissaspice.com.